Tag Archive for: pasta

Happy Thanksgiving!

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All of us in the Zelasko household wish you and your family a happy Thanksgiving. I’m grateful for all of you who support my business. May your travels be safe, the family fellowship be fun, and the food be delicious. Be back with you next week.

Sodium Citrate Works!

Last month, I talked about the fluid physics of pasta for making Cacio e Pepe, a three ingredient pasta dish. Researchers analyzed the best way to get the pasta to the right temp and starch level of the water. Then they used sodium citrate to compensate for the experience of an Italian grandmother who knew exactly when to add the pasta water.

Paula ordered sodium citrate, and I finally tried it. I used fresh chopped basil instead of pepper and added a teaspoon of sodium citrate as I added the cheese. No lumps in the sauce for the first time—smooth and silky—delicious! You can use the sodium citrate to make any cheese sauce smooth and not grainy or lumpy. Think about that Thanksgiving macaroni and cheese or some other recipe that requires cheese; you could even add a gravy boat of cheese sauce to encourage young (and older) guests who hate vegetables. Peas with cheese? Yes, whatever works.

The sodium citrate isn’t going to help with the turkey gravy, but for anything with a cheese sauce, like the nachos you’re going to serve as an appetizer or a snack during the game, you might find it’s a whole lot more popular this year if you use the sodium citrate trick. Leave it to physicists who love pasta to come up with the solution to clumpy cheese! That’s one more reason to be thankful.

What are you prepared to do today?

        Dr. Chet

The Secret Ingredient

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The paper on the physics of fluids was interesting, although the math was way beyond my ability. Researchers from four European countries took part in the research study on Cacio e Pepe to find the precise texture of the pasta, starch content of the water, and temperature of the water to get the perfect sauce from cheese and pasta water (the starchy water in which the pasta’s been cooking).

It all comes down to something called phase separation. That is the critical point where the starchy pasta water emulsifies the cheese so that it becomes creamy instead of separating into a lumpy mess. The scientists called the clumping the mozzarella stage. Not everyone has an Italian grandmother that they can watch and learn from, and nonnas didn’t use fancy instruments to test the water starch content—they knew from experience after making the dish hundreds of times.

If you’ve never thought about the physics of cooking, I’m with you on that. But the interaction of the starch being released from the pasta and visually assessing the starch content to get it right is just that: physics. The number of attempts the scientists used with varying starch content, water temperature, and cheese, and the resultant mathematical calculations to get to a solution were amazing. They actually came up with the correct recipe, but believe me, it’s too complicated to just post because it requires so much explanation. So they looked for another way to prepare the cheese sauce.

The Secret to Cheese Sauce: Sodium Citrate

The scientists came up with a natural solution: a natural substance, sodium citrate, that helps with the emulsification of the cheese. That’s the step the physicist chef talked about on the podcast. At the point where the starchy water is added to the cheese, a pinch of sodium citrate will help the emulsification process and instead of goo, you’ll get a creamy and smooth sauce. When I try it, I’ll let you know how it went.

Sodium citrate will add some tartness, but it’s also good for you if you’re not sodium sensitive. The citrate is a natural anticoagulant as well as emulsifier. The stumbling block may be the amount of sodium citrate. The recipe called for a pinch, which is usually an eighth of a teaspoon, but in the amount of pasta for two persons, the scientists used 5 grams, which is almost a teaspoonful.

So even after all the science that went into it, it’s still going to come down to trial and error. But you now have a solution for homemade cheese sauces. Ever try to make your own mac and cheese and end up with clumps? If it works for Cacio e Pepe, it should work for other cheese sauces that may separate.

The Bottom Line

What’s the point to all of this? Cooking enhances the flavor of the simplest ingredients. I would wager that if people knew how to cook better, they would use healthier ingredients. I think we can all relate to hating Brussel sprouts, but when baked with a little cheese and bacon, they’re amazing (check out the recipe on the Health Info page at drchet.com). We can argue whether a three-ingredient pasta dish is healthy, but if cooked properly, we may be satisfied with less, while vegetables cooked properly may mean we eat a little more. Remember, no one ever said that vegetables, fruits, and whole grains had to taste bad. The goal is to eat better. If cooked well, we may eat less.

What are you prepared to do today?

        Dr. Chet

Reference: Physics of Fluids 37, 044122 (2025)

Cheesy Pasta: My Gooey Mess

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Last Saturday I said that with all the heavy health news going on, it was time to change it up and talk about something a little lighter. Nothing could be lighter than cooking with just three ingredients to get a magnificent pasta dish. The dish is called Cacio e Pepe (Cheese and Pepper in English), and all you need is pasta, fresh ground pepper, and pecorino cheese although Parmesan also works. What you may not realize is that you also need to watch an Italian nonna cook it about 100 times before you even try to cook it.

When done correctly, the sauce is delicious. I’ve tried making it twice. The first ended up with the cheese reformulating and making a gooey mess. The second was the same but was inedible because I put in way too much pepper, together with the gooey instead of smooth and glistening sauce. I wasn’t going to threaten the creations of Italian nonnas any time soon. (By the way, we thought Nonnas was a fun movie.)

That is until I listened to a podcast that mentioned the physics of cooking pasta. A guest on the podcast, a chef with a PhD in physics, mentioned the elusiveness of cooking this recipe. That caught my attention and led me to read a paper titled “Phase behavior of Cacio e Pepe sauce” in the journal Physics of Fluids. Not only did I find out a lot about how pasta loses starch, but I also found out about a secret ingredient that makes the sauce work—and it may be good for you as well! That’s Saturday’s Memo.

What are you prepared to do today?

        Dr. Chet

Reference: Physics of Fluids 37, 044122 (2025)

Is Cold Pasta Healthier?

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Our grandson Riley has loved pasta since he started eating solid food (that’s him digging into his pasta at two; if his ear looks orange, it’s because his imaginary cell phone rang during dinner), and he often eats it cold. I mean refrigerator cold; he’ll eat it warm if we go out to a restaurant, but he prefers it cold. I don’t mean macaroni salad—I mean cold pasta, preferably with Riley sauce. The Riley sauce is my recipe created for him with a base of a marinara sauce; I grind up onions, garlic, mushrooms, carrots, zucchini, and beef with the grinding attachment for Paula’s KitchenAid mixer and add them to the base along with some additional spices. Then I slow cook it for a couple of hours. He eats that with a spoon (cold, of course) and doesn’t realize all the veggies he’s getting.

But it’s really the cold pasta that may be healthier for him. Why?  Doesn’t pasta increase blood sugar rapidly? Sure, if it’s hot. But when pasta is put in the refrigerator for a day or more, a process called retrogradation happens. As the pasta loses water, the remaining molecules lose their original structure and form a new structure. Those turn some of pasta’s sugar molecules into a resistant starch that passes through the body without being digested in the same way. When eaten cold like Riley does, that starch resists digestion until it gets down to the probiotics. There it can be turned into short-chain fatty acids instead of sugar molecules. Those fatty acids are much better for us for a variety of reasons.

As you celebrate the last summer holiday this weekend, keep in mind that pasta might be a dish best served cold. Have a fun Labor Day weekend, and please be safe if you’re traveling anywhere this weekend.

What are you prepared to do today?

        Dr. Chet

Unusual Question: Resistant Starch and Food Prep

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Resistant starch (RS) has qualities that are somewhat unique. As it’s being touted today, RS will help reduce the glycemic response to some carbohydrate-based foods. The issue is that when and how an RS containing food is prepared and consumed seems to be important. Let’s take a look.

Food Preparation Methods

The most natural forms of resistant starch to eat, regardless of preparation, are beans, seeds, nuts, and legumes. The food preparation doesn’t seem to impact the RS in any way, so these are the best ways to get RS.

Eating bananas and plantains when they’re green provides a high amount of RS. The more they’re allowed to ripen, the higher the sugar content and the less RS.

Raw potatoes also seem to have a high amount of RS. Because most people don’t eat raw potatoes, the type of preparation impacts RS levels. The longer the potatoes are cooked, the more the starch is changed into sugars or starches that don’t contain as much RS. In a review study of potatoes, the cooking method that contains the most RS was baked, followed by deep-fried, and finally boiled. The problem with deep-fried is the additional fat.

Does Cooling Increase RS?

We rarely hear about nutrients being increased by food prep, but RS may be the exception. A lot of the recent focus on RS surrounds the possibility of increasing RS by cooking and then cooling the foods before eating. The RS that degenerates during cooking is partially restored in cooling, particularly in rice and pasta.

However, in a study that examined the difference between rice that was eaten immediately, kept at room temperature and eaten eight hours later, and cooled for 24 hours and then eaten, the amount of fiber increased by 0.64 grams, 1.3 grams, and 1.65 grams per 100 grams serving. Stated slightly differently, in a half-cup portion, there was an increase of one gram of fiber per serving. While it’s true, it’s not meaningful in the real world and probably not worth the additional effort.

RS and Type 2 Diabetes

Another benefit of RS is to reduce the amount of sugar that enters the blood stream. In the rice study, the cooked and cooled rice was fed to 15 healthy volunteers. Their glycemic response was reduced. While I think that’s great, there’s no indication that this will happen in T2D. On top of that, think about the additional steps required to achieve that. I think there’s a better way.

The Bottom Line

Resistant starch is legit; it acts as a prebiotic and reduces the glycemic response, but I don’t think we need to go out of our way to get more of it. Increasing our intake of beans, seeds, legumes, and nuts will increase our RS the most without jumping through hoops. If you like green bananas, eat them. Cook your pasta al dente and that maintains some of the RS in pasta. If you like to cook extra rice and pasta to use in later meals, now you know there’s a nutritional benefit. You don’t need to do anything else but eat the foods that naturally contain RS. Simply put, just eat better.

Next week is all your questions, so send them in if you haven’t already.

What are you prepared to do today?

        Dr. Chet

References:
1. Nutrients. 2018 Nov 14;10(11). pii: E1764. doi: 10.3390/nu10111764.
2. Asia Pac J Clin Nutr 2015;24(4):620-625.